By Capt. Rod and Susie Stebbins
Part Three
Oh Those Great Bahamas(Cont.)
We were well on our way to Frazers Hog Cay (N25-22.42/W77-53.35 by 14327.6/61594.5) and soon after dark we arrived. After-dark arrivals at any port can be a challenge. When we planned our trip we drew a straight line from Marker 8M to the Chubb Cay marker and found that Mamma Rhoda Rocks might be in the way of a safe arrival. Knowing that "Elmo" can be off a bit in the Bahamas, we set our arrival waypoint out about two miles directly south (180 degrees) of the marker. The radar caught sight of the island way before we did. The Mamma Rhoda Rocks didn’t appear on the radar screen at all as we passed well south of where they were supposed to be. We made the turn to a heading of 360 degrees, and with Susie on the bow we slipped quietly into Chubb Cay Club Marina just like we knew what we were doing.
We were greeted by several other boaters and a dock hand that was expecting us. We had called ahead on VHF channel 68 some two hours earlier advising them we would be coming in after dark. The assistance we received at the dock was welcome - for by now we were tired and ready for relaxation, a hot shower, a cool drink and a good night’s sleep.
We continued the rest of our vacation - exploring exotic islands such as Cormorant Cays, Samphire Cays, Fish Cays, Cockroach Cay, Sisters Rocks, Little Whale Cay, Cat Cay, Breen Bush, Rum Cay and Blackwood Bush. Exploring parts of the many miles of ledges along the fringes of the three fathom contour was a great deal of fun. We would have liked to document each of the many hundreds of coral heads we saw but they are too many to mention. Finding things to explore with snorkels, hooka equipment or SCUBA equipment is not at all difficult with water so clean and clear.
The quality of the fishing is virtually indescribable. If we were to start off with the truth and expound on how good it really is we would sound like a travel agent pushing high commission tours. Everywhere we dove we saw fish and everywhere we dropped a line we were soon rewarded with either tiny tugs or healthy wrestling matches. We were most successful trolling with lures sweetened with squid or shrimp. Susie prefers drift fishing to anything else. I guess it is the surprise she likes most, as she caught at least one of everything each and every day we fished. It really didn’t seem to matter which artificial lure we chose, just as long as we sweetened the lure. We found our groupers too.
It seems that whenever it is time to leave for home we are usually between fronts and always wondering if we are going to make it to the next port before we are caught. This trip was no different. A slow moving squall line was laying between us and where we wanted to go. For a day and two nights it just laid there and squalled...
Another couple we met, Mary and Bruce Peterson and their 42 foot Grand Banks were concerned about their schedule, as were we. So the next morning we headed east to go west with our first destination being Great Harbor Cay. We knew we could camp there at a fine marina if need be, but at least we had several optional routes to take if need be.
When we arrived off shore from the Great Harbor Cay Marina we discovered they were filled to overflowing with all of their 25 transient slips full. We continued past Great Harbor Cay through Great Harbor and set our anchors on the lee side of a pretty island called Goat Cay. We were grateful for the wind, as we could sleep without running generators to keep the air conditioning operating all night. For two days we camped a-la primitive and enjoyed every minute of our stay. The Petersons were wonderful people except they had a very bad habit of winning at gin rummy.
Thursday morning awoke with a splash of wonderful colors and we knew that the weatherman was right on with his forecast. Susie was up first (as usual) and directed another ice cube to wake up the captain. The same song, another dance, just another verse. Our anchor was raised and secure by 7:00 am. We didn’t want to try our luck at the entrance to Great Harbor in the dark.
Once out of the harbor and showing about thirty feet of water we punched in the coordinates for WEST END. "Elmo" indicated our heading to be 311 degrees and that we were to travel 78 nautical miles. The seas were rolling out of the southwest causing our bow to dig deep into each wave. Our speed was reduced to a tad more than nine knots all of the way -- eight hours and thirty minutes of constant salt spray and that ever up and down motion. Susie and I stayed on the bridge the whole trip as walking about was very uncomfortable. The whole time we wondered how GARFELDASTEINSKI was making out. Boy did we hope she wasn’t seasick.
At 1615 hours (4:15 pm) we rounded the marker at WEST END and found our way to the same slip we had just two and half weeks earlier. Susie again secured SANCHO to the dock and we were surprised to find GARFELDASTEINSKI at her favorite window just as if nothing at all was different. After a nice dinner of diet food we rolled up early in bed and enjoyed the still of a calm harbor and the soft sounds of people and music in the back ground. The next day would teach us a lesson we would not soon forget. A lesson that can be both convenient and inconvenient depending on your point of view.
The Florida Straits have a reputation for being as unpredictable as Susie’s buying habits. Boating in Florida requires one ear attached to the weather channel and one ear attached to channel 16 for advisories from other boats making the crossing. One old salty fisherman sitting on our dock told us "when there ain’t no talk’n on the radio stay in port." This rule seemed too simple so we trusted the weatherman and our instincts and for the next three days we poked our noses out to sea only to be driven back by rolling seas too large for our blood. Each time we returned, the old salt would chide "...could have saved the gas sonny." Once the Straits subsided we were off like a herd of turtles running from a Hawaiian luau. The crossing was more fun this time as we sped across at trolling speeds most of the way hoping for that one big catch to tell lies about. Instead, Susie managed a couple of beautiful dolphin that, once filleted, fit very nicely into our freezer for later meals. The first dolphin was "nuked" in the microwave right away for brunch.
Late that evening we arrived just in time for immigrations. Once the formalities were over, we were off to the Florida Keys - which will be the subject of our next exciting experience. We will tell of stars, romance, treasure, fishing, camping and generally what doing the Florida Keys in a small boat is all about. Don’t forget to hear about the treasure, sunsets and diving into the abysses of absolute heaven and some neat fishing hints for light line and bottom fishing.
Traveling by private boat throughout the Bahamas is really an adventure filled with wonderful memories. The possibilities for excitement, adventure, fishing, diving and fun are endless. We have not traveled all of the islands; however, some day we will start a trip to another set of islands to explore the one and only "Land of Enchantment," THE BAHAMAS. Until next time may the gods of sunsets send you nothing but rosy colors and romance.
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